|@Psiloc - I still need to do that, but my snes isn't used that often (only when my kids find it ). I know the difference between composite and rgb, but here the problem is most likely that the output level is too high; probably they soldered the cable on the wrong place. Most work will be to open the damned thing, Nintendo and their custom screws...|
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Oh, and a word of warning about cheap rgb scart leads. I bought one for less than 10 euros for my gamecube and I had to resolder the whole thing as all video signals were mixed up (yes, I could have brought it back, but that would have taken more time )
@RobTheBuilder You still looking for a component cable? One's just turned up in my shed.
@Psiloc Either component or RGB, indeed! What do you want for it?
@RobTheBuilder Just the postage is fine, reckon two quid?
@Psiloc great, thanks
What's easiest way? PayPal?
@RobTheBuilder Yeah I'll PM you my email address and I'll pop it in the post. Not been able to test it BTW so fingers crossed.
Got the rgb lead delivered but not checked the pins yet. Still waiting on snes and still haven't sorted power out.
What a great update
If you have a Gamecube you could try it with that? It's "RGB-ness" will be apparent by the improved picture quality.
Would if I hadn't have sold it when I got my wii
Quick question for knowledgable folks...
I picked up a copy of Lego Indiana Jones on the Wii (the one with three games in) yesterday for a couple of quid.
I've looked and found them selling for over Ł20 on play. Is this game actually worth anything or is it just retailers jacking up prices on pseudo-rarity? I can't see any copies on eBay at last look.
@RobTheBuilder - I believe Lego Indy is one of the very few games that can (could?) be used to (soft-)mod the Wii. Something to do with a bug/exploit in savegames iirc
@Red_Bool ahh, that's interesting! Thanks
@RobTheBuilder You still want that cable?
@Psiloc yea please, haven't been able to find my PayPal login so will get my folks to do it! Will email you later! Thanks
Well, I've got my USA snes, but still haven't got a power supply yet. @Psiloc - which one would you recommend?
Also, interestingly, I've just moved house and when I set the (PAL) snes up, my new AV (composite) lead that was working fine now doesn't work.
I tried my new RGB Scart one which kind of worked, but everything was really faded on the screen and the scanlines were split wider than normal. Is that the lead not liking the PAL snes video output?
Anyway, I put the AV lead I got with the imported snes on the pal unit and it works fine.
But the dreamcast AV lead is now playing up - must have got knocked in the move or something, because every so often, the picture has tinges of purple everywhere. Easily solved by gently tweaking the lead near the back of the DC, but annoying all the same
I don't know exactly what's meant to happen if you use one, I just know that PAL SNESs aren't compatible with RGB so I wouldn't really worry yet. In fact it's probably a good sign that it IS RGB in that it's behaving differently to the composite cable.
My guess about the Dreamcast is that the cable has had it... or the cable housing is coming loose from the motherboard inside the console, though I don't think the DC was particularly susceptible to this problem (it's no Megadrive). I'd say if there's no sign of the latter it's probably the cable; it depends on exactly what 'tweaking' you're doing to remedy the problem.
Regarding the NTSC power supply - can you not just use one of those universal adaptor things?
You know like the one you take on holiday so your wife can use her hairdryer.
They sell 'multi-region' ones for about a tenner that you can configure in various ways.
Oh shit... your power supply question.
From what I understand, the power tip you need is Maplin part number AR28F, AKA Power Tip R. This is just a part that attaches to the end of a universal power supply and fits the US SNES.
In terms of the spec of the actual power supply - you just need to get one which can output the specs printed on the console or I think slightly over. You obviously don't want to go mental and feed it ten times the ampage or anything like that, but I believe giving something a little too much voltage or ampage, especially in low amounts like this, doesn't do much harm. It's making sure it's DC and the polarity is the right way around that's important (polarity = the way you affix the power tip). Maybe another EGer can verify this?
Ah, I know those tips you mean - you get a set of them don't you, of all different shapes etc? The ones with the two silver pins sticking out of them? Where you get the polarity wrong and it blows shit up?
Yes, I suppose it's good news about the rgb - it's obviously not just a cheap rip of a composite connection.
Actually, yes, wouldn't one of those travel adapters work?
I know I'm asking a million questions about it, but I'd rather ask too many and not actually blow the thing up
As I saw someone rather aptly put it once, volts are pushed by the power supply, whereas amps are pulled from the power supply.
Meaning, if the voltage the power supply provides is higher than what is needed, the device will fry. For amps, the power supply needs to supply at least what the device requires. More is not harmful, because the device will only ever pull what it needs.
Less voltage/amps than a device requires will probably not work.
Hmm. I've just done a bit of Googling and for some bizarre reason, 10v universal power supplies seem to be rare. Ones that support 9v and 12v seem to be all over the place but whether you want to risk one is up to you. I think it will come down to how good the voltage regulator in the SNES is...?
Do not use a travel adapter! They don't change the voltage at all, they literally just adapt the shape of the plug so it will fit - the reason the wife's hairdryer works in the US is because it is already designed to work on 110v. I suspect you may actually be basing this on a European holiday anyway and their mains power is the same as ours, that's why Euro adapters are so readily used.
A travel adapter that changes the voltage is a step-down converter.
Speaking of which the step-down converter you found from Amazon is the most economical solution now as far as I can see, since the only 10v universal PSU I can find is a bit pricey (http://goo.gl/DNHL6). Sorry if I confused matters the other day! BTW to answer your question about the wattage, 45W should be more than enough to power a SNES, since based on my maths the SNES should only use 8.5W (10V x 0.85A = 8.5W). The figure goes up and down based on how hard the SNES is working though but I doubt it would spike to 45W.
If anyone else wants to verify that none of this has come out of my arse that would be lovely!
Either way I'd make sure to turn off the step-down converter at the wall whenever you're not using it, if for no reason than to give it a longer life. Those things work hard.
If a device has a power rating on its case next to the power plug and it says e.g. 10V 0.85A, you may be pretty sure it's the maximum power draw.
heh, thanks for the info Psiloc
Well, Ł28 is a lot for a bit of power, but if it works, then I'm not too fussed. I'll keep looking
My saga continues,
Due to my unhealthy addiction to The Chaos Engine, I think I’ve found the definitive version now (except the Amiga version obviously, but load times bin that off!)
I thought the SNES version was good, but the music is slightly different from the original version. I know that’s really nitpicking, but when you’ve had the original theme’s in your head for so long, it really sticks out (for me)
However, the Steam version is absolutely top fucking notch. It’s even got a graphics smoother option which makes it a little less rough around the edges. The only bad things I can see so far, is a) the noise when the AI controlled character is teleported to your side when he wanders off is annoying, and b) the party power exploit doesn’t work anymore. Though that’s probably a good thing, longevity wise.
Had a good session on it and it works well with a 360 controller, and at the sum of Ł7, I think is good value, if you’re into it.
Got to world 4, level 4, but couldn’t finish it. ARGH!
DFawkes Friendliest Forumite, 2015 28,732 posts
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quadfather wrote:I don't think that's nitpicking at all, the music in Chaos Engine is fantastic and, for me at least, is a part of why I love it. Sure, it's still good on SNES, but it just doesn't feel quite right. It'd be like coming home to find your furniture rearranged - sure, you can still sit down, watch TV and do all the same things the room is designed for, but it'll still feel wrong.
I thought the SNES version was good, but the music is slightly different from the original version. I know that’s really nitpicking, but when you’ve had the original theme’s in your head for so long, it really sticks out (for me)!
Great game though, but I can never get far.
Yup, have to agree. It does feel 'different'. It's good, don't get me wrong, but Chaos Engine has to be perfect for me
I died loads when I first started it, but slowly, you get back into that 16 bit trance and realise evading and your general movement is just as vital as killing them asap.
It's bloody tight on the powerups too. I managed world 1 and got the majority of stuff, less on world 2, nightmare time trying to get everything on world 3 and then you've only got 1 shop visit in world 4 before you have to go for it.
Hate missing out on the secret areas and/or 2nd/3rd exits. Drives me mad!
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