Deebs, you need to make sure your wireless is on the 192.168.1 range, not the 169.254.50 range. I had this problem before. The only way I could sort it out was to set a static IP on each PC and disable DHCP in my routers setting.|
The "AP" means it cant connect to the Access Point, so by going to Ad Hoc its effectively only going to talk to other Wifi enabled PC's (I think - never really did work out Ad Hoc and Infrastructure). So its kinda like Wifi crossover cable.
Wireless networking problem (sigh) • Page 2
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OK, I get the same thing too if I use anything below x.x.x.200 I think. Something to do with how my router is setup.
Try sticking it to 250? Its definitely on 192.168.1.xxx now though yeah?
Oh good spot on the subnet...bet thats it...
...been a way a while aint he?
Edited by Furbs at 00:17:22 10-09-2005
Check here in the morning, theres probably some proper techy nighthawks who can nail it in one
All tech problems always crop up late a night for some reason dont they? Probably best when you've had kip though.
Having issues with my PC. It's been working fine for a year connecting to my Buffalo router, however recently something on my computer keeps crashing the router sporadically, kicking all other connected devices (iPads, Xbox etc) off.
I know it's the pc because I've left it disconnected for a week with no router issues.
I have tried two different wifi cards in the pc, and also reset the router to factory settings but no avail.
Anyone got any other suggestions?
Currently I'm stopping and starting services to see if it's any of them.
Is the computer fully patched and virus scanner up to date(and you are using an up to date secure browser like the latest Firefox)?
As my first thought would be a virus or some script exploit on a site you use making the PC flood the router with a denial of service attack from inside the router's firewall.
Try turning off Upnp in the router options in case the PC is inadvertently messing with the device in ways it shouldn't from some software you've installed (like VideoLan or Windows media Player will adjust settings when media streaming).
If you've got another router, I suggest trying a different one to rule out the router being on its way out, as a faulty power supply or dielectric breakdown of the router processor can provide all manner of weird symptoms when a PC ups the routers workload.
You might also want to check that the PC has the same effect when wired directly with an Ethernet cable. If that fixes the issue then it might be you need to set the wifi card on the PC to connect only to Access Points rather than Adhoc and APs mode.
I've got ESET internet security installed and up to date (although i do download the odd PES patch from dodgy upload sites, so its not inconceivable that somethign has slipped through the net)
I tried ethernet, that works fine, funnily enough, i can stay connected to the internet on cable, whilst i can see the wifi connection on the same pc connecting and disconnecting repeatedly.
I think the router might be on its way out, its just strange how ipads and iphones and my other laptop stay connected fine, but this specific PC has issues. I'm now trying a usb wifi dongle and still having the same problem.
Well the cable working has virtually ruled out you having a virus, or anything messing with the router via Upnp, so that is good.
It could still be an over zealous application(mobile phone suite, sat nav software, virus scanner, VideonLan) running in the background thrashing the CPU which causes the wireless to drop off, or if not using an internal PCI wireless card, the system settings might be aggressively putting the USB devices into power saving mode. Which is a feature you should turn off anyway.
But more realistically (assuming you've got a reasonable specced PC with a dual core & 2gb of RAM & using a PCI wireless card with a normal length antenna) then it is probably either the distance to the router(and walls in between) and direction of the router antennas or someone in the neighbourhood using a router on the same channel number as yours.
But you can build a reflector with a piece of card from a cereal box and some tin foil, and make it into a “V” shape to aim either the PC antenna or Router Antenna towards each other if distance is an issue.
Incorrect wireless settings, eg the difference between WEP Open and WEP Shared could cause this problem to(if still using old WEP use Open).
The difference between WPA-PSK (TKIP/AES) and WPA2 (TKIP/AES) could cause continual handshaking that doesn't effect the iPad; for better compatibility use WPA-PSK (TKIP).
It could even be the Wireless card's wifi driver being out of date around the time when WPA2 became standard in XP SP1 or 2, or the card's wifi manager software being buggy; use Window's internal software if you aren't already, unless it is a Thnkstation).
To determine if the location of the PC is an issue, turn it off and use your iPad from the exact same spot to upload/download something of reasonable size, to see if that drops connection. If the things above weren't an issue and the router is fine, then it is most likely the wireless card's lower level settings(device properties, general tab, configure button, advanced tab on XP); start off by forcing it to wireless B (or G if previous using N). I can't remember the name off hand, but their should be an option like retransmission delay, with options auto, short & long, which might be worth setting to long (if the PC and router are some walls and distance apart).
Hopefully after looking at a few of those things we might get a better picture of other settings that might be needed, or just to confirm the router isn't in best shape any more.
IP address conflict?
Thanks for the ideas matey
It's definitely not PC location, because the PC or router hasn't moved in years, and also its about 3m from the router with no walls in the way. Other devices which are further away and through walls have a strong connection.
Now that you mention it, I DID recently change from WPA AES to WPA TKIP because my new kindle wouldn't connect... maybe I'll change it back and see. I totally erased the network connection from the PC and readded a new one though, i don't know why it wouldnt cope with TKIP instead of AES unless the router itself has an issue with it.
Also i haven't tried disabling UpNp yet which i will do tonight.
Software was my initial thought but nothing is hogging the CPU at all, i uninstalled splashtop remote, uTorrent, citrix plugin which were my first guesses.
I am wondering if it could be itunes, as the problems do seem slightly exaccerbated when itunes is on (but maybe thats because its downloading podcasts and app updates)... i will try shutting down all the apple processes too this evening, although i am loathe to uninstall itunes as its a pain in the backside to get the library and settings all back up as they were.
I'm telling you its an an IP address conflict.
Check the IP address settings on wireless network adapter on your PC. Make sure everything is set to auto/from DHCP whatever.
I think there's a way of deleting the connection, forcing the PC to forget the settings and come up with new ones that work.
I'll take a look. I know that the router is not set to assign a static IP to my pc, as i factory-reset it.
I'll have a look at my PC's wifi settings and see if i've (stupidly!) put in a fixed IP address or something, but i can't recall why i'd have done that!
It's all set up as a totally new connection, after factory resetting the router, i then installed a different usb wifi dongle, and used a different ssid etc, so i'd be surprised.
Well that makes sense, if you changed to WPA2 AES, recently, then that is what my money is on. Even when WPA became standard, the the tolerance and labelling is all over the place in different devices.
My previous smartphone needed WPA-PSK(TKIP), as does the PSP Go, and even the other day configuring wifi for a friend his brand new BTHub 2 set to WPA needed WPA-PSK(AES), even though Windows saw it as WPA2.
I'm pretty confident your problem will all sort itself quickly once the options you choose for everything fit with the oldest or lowest common denominator device using wireless.
Windows should report an IP conflict and stop handshaking with a yellow triangle. I'm pretty sure it has done this since Windows NT4 or Windows 2000 Professional. So that is why I didn't think it was that.
Fair enough, windows is clever than I gave it credit for
I once had a similar-ish problem with a router that always crashed when set to WPA2. It seemed to be a workload issue - if there was heavy traffic, encrypting all that data eventually made the router fall over. It seemed to get hot as well so I put it down to overheating. Needed to be power cycled to reset things.
I'll report back later, but i went from WPA2 to WPA, not the other way round, and then AES to TKIP.
Still it smells fishy to me.
I blame the kindle for being shite
Your router might need a firmware upgrade then(if available) as it might just be a known bug.
It might also be that when you selected WPA-PSK(TKIP) the router is actually using WPA Auto(as it is labelled on my router), and is using uPnP when handshaking with one of the devices that is pushing for a WPA 2 mode instead. The other devices might all handle the change fine except the PC that needs explicitly set.
My first port of call would be to double check that the router is WPA-PSK(TKIP) only, and doesn't have a secondary Wifi broadcast using WPA2 which might cause a masquerading issue for the PC.
Then turn off uPnP for the time being, and check each device is fixed to use WPA-PSK(TKIP) only. If that doesn't work, check for a router firmware update, and if all else fails, download a copy of Fedora 16 live CD, to live boot just from the CD to bypass Windows completely to see if Linux repeats the same problem.
Dang, you were spot on.
Switched the encryption back to WPA2 (AES & TKIP) and its working like a charm on the PC now.
Now i have to return that router i ordered from Dabs this morning, doh! well, better £10 wasted on delivery than £80 on a router i suppose.
Glad you are back up and running, and sorry about the router failure scare. Wireless has been such a nuisance for most of my friends(some who are IT professionals too) with one device or router that we've started moving to powerline plugs for all but smarphones and handhelds.
Bremenacht 21,135 posts
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It'd be interesting to put it back, and then disable uPnP.
well i just had a fiddle on the kindle and actually i can manually set up the wifi to work on WPA2, so it seems to connect OK.
I think that just leaves the DS Phat but i am not really fussed if that connects or not.
I'll leave uPnP on and leave it on WPA2 to be honest
So, I got a new router about 2 weeks ago, and I'm having a great deal of trouble getting my PC to get a good connection to it. The router is a D-Link, as is the network adapter in my desktop.
I can connect to the router no problem, but it's stuck on "identifying" and frequently won't connect to the internet at all. The signal strength varies from 30% to 70%, and it's connected at 300Mbps but just can't get online for whatever reason.
The funny thing is, my laptop can connect no problem. It connects at 150Mbps to the network, but it gets online and can download at pretty much full-speed (which is 25Mbps). This is even when the laptop is on the same desk as the desktop (i.e. distance from router isn't the problem).
When the desktop does get lucky and connects, it's on the network at 300Mbps, but internet downloads are between 1-2Mbps (about 5% of my download speed - i.e. totally unacceptable).
I've re-installed my network adapter drivers, but no change. I've disabled and re-enabled Ipv6, but it's not making much of a difference. I've deleted my old router's network from Windows. I've changed the wireless channels, again no difference.
I seriously doubt it's my PC's network card, despite knowing that everything I've just typed would suggest that it is. The reason for this is that the card was perfectly fine until 2 weeks ago, then the new router arrived. The card hasn't changed, so it looks like there's some incompatibilty somewhere.
P.S my old router died after some physical damage, that's why I have the new one. I'm guessing that the new router just isn't as good as the old one in terms of signal broadcasting, so it looks like I might need another, likely more expensive (sigh), router.
Firmware of the router up to date? I'd just buy some lovely homeplugs rather than a new router.
Try different security settings (WEP/WPA/WPA2/none).
Or just get some homeplugs if it's a desktop and mobility is not an issue.
Edited by Chopsen at 10:44:23 02-03-2012
I'll check! I shouldn't really have to get another router - but then that got me thinking... The signal from this one really isn't as strong as my old one. If i'm in the bedroom (furthest distance from the router) with my iPad, the signal isn't really strong enough to stream a YouTube vdeo without stuttering. Whereas it used to do it no problem with my old router.
Methinks it could be a weakass router. I shoulda done more research (I just don't have the bloody time to anymore).
Aye, D-Links are a bit pony. Just not as bad as Belkin
But then, all my other shit (laptop, iPad, etc.) can connect without issue, even if the connection isn't as strong as it used to be (it's still functional).
But why's the desktop so flaky? It won't even connect most of the time, it's just "identifying".
As you say, there's a conflict somewhere, but christ knows why. Googled to see if it's a known conflict between the 2?
If you are having trouble with wireless the first thing to do is always turn off any security to see if it connects.
Although, tbh, it sounds like your wireless card can't handle your router so if the security thing fails try setting the router to broadcast at 54mbps and go from there
Also try setting the ip to a static address