Has anyone heard of TVS Gold keyboards?|
Someone is selling an old grey PS/2 one near me cheap (Less than £20) and I'm trying to figure out if it's a good one. I asked him if it's mechanical, but he didn't seem to understand the question. Anyone know anything about them?
Keyboard advice: thinking of getting a mechanical • Page 5
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asha 2,023 posts
Seen 3 weeks ago
Registered 12 years ago
Seems to be an Indian mechanical keyboard, apparently using Cherry MX blues according to photos. Reviews are very variable though, and all the Cherry MX switches I've seen don't have those rounded edges, so I'm suspecting a cheap copy, especially given how bad some of the reported action is.
Edit: And also how cheap you can get them - apparently 25 quid for a whole keyboard.
Edited by mal at 18:47:07 19-03-2012
Looks like a perfectly legit blue switch to me. If it was a knockoff, I'd highly douubt they'd bother with the logo and the LED cup.
Sounds like a cheap way to experiment, at any rate - cheap being relative to income, though.
The only trouble I'm having with blue switches is myself. When I play games, I'm so used to 'prepping' the A key for activation with a half press that it's going off early and sending me sliding gaily sideways. Not sure how long that particular habit is going to take to unlearn.
You should be able to just adjust the weight you apply to the key. I don't have my MX keyboard with me, but on this ALPS unit I can easily prep a key just below the activation threshold.
To be fair though I have a lot of trouble not bottoming out my cherry MX brown keyboard, while I can avoid it most of the time on ALPS, so perhaps ALPS switches are heavier weight than MX.
I didn't know you could adjust that. How do you go about it?
I found myself doing exactly what MD mentioned but after about a half an hour I got my head around the key already being pre-prepped, so to speak.
Really loving the higher actuation point now.
Edited by Dirtbox at 06:59:05 20-03-2012
Sorry, I meant you can adjust the pressure you apply to the key by, um, pressing down less hard - I don't think any keyswitches are tweakable like that.
Edit: Oh, and I did try prepping keys on my MX brown keyboard, and it's doable but not as easy as on my ALPS board. Part of that is because the action of the MX browns feels a bit rough, while the ALPS is smooth apart from the actuation bump - that may be because my ALPS keyboard is over 10 years old though, and it's worn the barrels smooth.
Edited by mal at 14:07:32 20-03-2012
It'll take me a little while, I reckon. My brain tells me I'm not pressing half-down when I really am - it's hard to ease off when you think you're not doing it at all. Stupid brain.
Psychotext 60,419 posts
Seen 6 hours ago
Registered 10 years ago
Bump... any more recommendations? I was using a (non mechanical) Microsoft Natural Keyboard for years, and I loved it... but eventually I had to replace it with the Logitech job that I've got now, and it's shit.
I know I wont be able to get an ergonomic natural (or at least I've never seen one), but I fancy giving a mechanical a go all the same.
gamingdave 4,616 posts
Seen 4 hours ago
Registered 13 years ago
Only took me a year, but I ended up getting a full sized Filco with brown switches. It really is a thing of beauty, a delight to type on, built like a tank, and looks great on the desk. Very happy with it.
ISmoke 1,364 posts
Seen 7 hours ago
Registered 9 years ago
I acquired a Ducky DK9008 Shine 3 with Red switches today.
It's funny. i never liked the look of mechanical keyboads so i was always going to stick with dome boards. That is until i stumbled across a Corsair K90 in maplins played with it for 10 seconds and i was converted.
Now actually being able to type on one, i don't think i could go back. It's a delight to write this on. The ducky was expensive but i could probably commit murder with this thing. Nice and durable. Only draw back is there is no wrist rest but I can look past that
DrStrangelove 8,949 posts
Seen 8 hours ago
Registered 7 years ago
Got a Fujitsu KB910 (€40/£32) now, a flat/softkey keyboard with white backlighting. The lighting is fucking dreadful, it works, but it is ghastly.
However, the keyboard is great. I tried lots of keyboards, including the Apple aluminum thingy, and this is the best I had. I don't really notice it's there, which is a good sign. Importantly for gaming, it supports multi-key commands like W+D+Space, which very few keyboards did that I tried. Most importantly, unlike a twice-the-price Logitech keyboard I considered, that is claimed to be unable to do Shift+W+Space, which is out of question obviously.
It has the standard layout with well-separated function keys, also important for me, no experiments with re-arranged arrow keys, del/pos1/insert etc. Just the right original setting as God created it.
There's a cheaper non-illuminated version, the KB900 (€30/£24) if you don't need that stuff. Again, if you want good illumination, this one's crap. If you want a professional ten-finger keyboard, you're not really looking for flat designs anyway.
For convenient+play use, KB900 and KB910 havy my thumbs up.
Interesting. Reds never came up in my searches last time I was on the market for a mechanical. Like MX blacks but lighter, right?
I like a bit more feel personally, but at least you've still got the travel with pretty much any mechanical (a term I hate, by the way - even the action of a rubber dome keyboard is mechanical).
Edited by mal at 21:21:25 03-09-2013
azurelas_2 1,720 posts
Seen 4 hours ago
Registered 11 years ago
I've just spilled water on my Corsair K60 mechanical keyboard, and haven't been able to repair it.
My question is; how does one fix a waterlogged keyboard? I've already drained, dried and disassembled it, and it still isn't working. Also, I really can't afford to pay another 85€ for a a new one.
Any tips? Thanks in advance.
How's it not working? If the computer recognises it when you plug it in, the electronics are still roughly working which just leaves the keyswitches, which are repairable or replaceable. If the computer doesn't then you've fried the board, and you need an electronic engineer to test the individual chips and replace them, which will likely cost more than a new keyboard.
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